REQUIRED SQ.FT. AMOUNT
Rumbled 4×8 clay pavers with Classic Red color are tumbled after firing to mimic the look and appeal of antique reclaimed pavers for old worn-out historical appearance. The dimensions are standard 4"x8" or large square format of 4"x12", both by 2-1/4" thickness. The paver complies with ASTM C902, Class SX, Type I, Application PX and ASTM C67 for Freeze-Thaw.
PALLET INFORMATION / ESTIMATING CHART :
APPLICATION MATRIX :
|Questions and Answers||
Q. Can I lay my pavers just on a layer of sand ?
A. We recommend a base layer of 4” of compacted crusher run gravel (8” minimum for a driveway) and then a setting bed of 1” of concrete sand (not masonry sand). This should provide a long lasting stable base for your pavers. Laying pavers directly on the ground or on a layer of sand is not recommended because the pavement will become uneven within the first year and worsen over time.
Q. Do I need to seal my pavers ?
A. No, clay paver color is permanent. Sealers are not recommended or necessary for long-term durability or color stability. In fact, some sealers can actually harm the performance of the pavers over time. There are some conditions where the use of a sealer may be beneficial. In all cases make sure the sealer is “breathable” and follow directions carefully.
Q. What about moss & weeds ?
A. he existence of moss is an indication of poor drainage (in a shaded area) as the saturation of water creates an ideal environment for growth. The best solution is to keep the area dry by improving drainage or elevation although these remedies may not be practical. For moss and organic growth removal, a three-to-one solution of water and chlorine bleach is recommended or a one to one dilution in severe cases.
Weed growth in flexible base paving systems is common in lower traffic areas. Contrary to popular belief, growth takes place in the sand joint and not from underneath the pavers. Weed killer such as Round-Up will handle existing growth while a pre-emergent weed killer can be used in the spring as a prevention measure.
Q. Why do I need sand between the pavers ?
A. Joint sand is the key to providing interlock between pavers preventing movement. The sand cushion between the pavers prevents paver-on-paver contact and chipping. The sand joint between pavers should be between 1/16” and 3/16” but never zero. Concrete sand with course and angular particles is recommended over mason sand which has rounder finer particles. The joints need to be completely full of sand to function properly. If the sand joints between your pavers are not full then it is important to add more sand to prevent pavement failure. A proper installed base with edge restraints and a surface that drains properly will go a long way towards maintaining full joints.
Q. Should I use a polymeric sand in the joints ?
A. For the vast majority of applications, we do not recommend using joint sand stabilization products commonly referred to as polymeric sand. The joints will seal naturally in around 6 months with sediment and debris. If you do decide to use a joint sand stabilizer, we cannot stress enough the importance of the pavers being completely dry and following manufacturer’s instructions completely. If you choose a moisture activated joint sand stabilizer, the pavers must be swept and blown completely free on any residual stabilizer prior to activating the product. Failure to do so is likely to create a cloudy haze.
We do not recommend a portland cement and sand mixture because the cement tends to get stuck in the small crevices of the pavers and will stain the surface. Efflorescence is also a concern when using a portland cement and sand mixture.
Q. What is the white powdery substance that appears on the pavers at times ?
A. Efflorescence is a crystalline salt deposit on the surface on the paversthat is caused by the migration of contaminated water through the pavers that result in a white or gray powder on the surface of the pavers. The salt does not come from the paver itself as shown through regular testing. The most common source of efflorescence is the use of deicers like rock salt. If you are going to use a deicer we recommend pure magnesium chloride as it will minimize efflorescence.
The simplest remedy to efflorescence is to allow it to run its course allowing rain to clear off the salt provided that the paved area has good drainage. Efflorescence can also be removed by dry brushing and then vacuuming up the powder followed by a flush of clear water. Repeat this process if any remaining salts reappear. Salt crystals are superficial and do not affect the durability of the pavers. EaCo Chem’s Effortless has shown effectiveness at rendering soluble salts insoluble, reducing efflorescence.
Q. How should I clean my pavers ?
A. Pressure washers are not recommended for use on flexible base applications. The pressure washer tends to remove joint sand which compromises interlock. We suggest using a stiff application brush and a normal pressured garden hose.
Q. What if I get stains on my pavers ?
A. For general cleaning, we would recommend EaCo Chem's NMD 80 or Prosoco’s SureKlean 600. Do not use muriatic acid as the acid concentrations can vary from container to container and higher acid content can produce more stains.
The cardinal rules for cleaning brick are to always pre-test a small area first (preferably in a hidden area), pre-wet the area with water and follow directions carefully.
Q. Should I choose a Sand Set or Mortar Set paver system ?
A. Both systems have their own unique beauty and appeal. Sand set paver systems are cheaper and easier to install than mortar set paver systems but both systems will be durable for many years when installed properly. However, sand set pavers due have a longer lifetime because the system is designed to flex and move with the earth over time. Mortar set are a continuous pavement that can develop cracks like you would see in a concrete sidewalk. Plus, mortar joints tend to break down over time depending on exposure to salts, necessitating maintenance.